Category Archives: Burda

White Skinny Jeans – Burda 7863

Finally! A pair of pants completed, white pants, at the end of August.  I worked on my pants sloper on an off with my sewing instructor for about 6 months.  We got the sloper worked out for a standard pair of narrow (not skinny) pants.  The concept is that I can use the sloper to draft any other kind of pant but when dealing with a stretch fabric the whole pattern basically needed to be narrowed in the X direction inlcuding the pockets and crotch width.

I threw caution to the fashion winds and wore them to work today — way after Labor Day!  😛

White jeans are on my SWAP by the way so yeah me!

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PATTERN

I used Burda 7863  as the basis of design.  Basically I used the measurements of the pockets and back yoke.  The top of the jeans is about 1/4″ lower than my sloper.  For the next pair, and there will be several more, I won’t lower the back at all and will dip the front by another 1/2″.  The legs here are much narrower than the Burda pattern.

The pattern calls for a straight waistband but I made a contoured band instead with seams at the sides to allow for adjustments. It’s a bit bulky but I am always tweaking.

The one thing I messed up was the pocket placement on the rear.  It was fine until I started taking the sides in and now they are too far apart.  I’ve put the pants back in the sewing room for the winter  in the hope that I ‘ll get inpired to move them by spring.

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And yes, those are houndstooth Connies!

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FABRIC

I struggled a lot with the nature of the stretch denim which I am guessing has about 3% Lycra.  I think I got it at NY Elegant in NYC.  I prefer 2% Lycra but I had a hard enough time finding a white that was also thick enough to avoid show through.  The pretty floral waistband and zipper guard is actually the last of an old set of sheets.The pocket bags are just a buff colored quilting cotton purchased specifically for this project as I didn’t want anything to show through.

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These are fresh out of a hot dryer for the photo shoot, but they loosen up in after an hour of wear.

I took them in at the waist, hip, and even reduced the crotch extension to accommodate the stretch properties.  I also narrowed the legs for style purposes.

The only fit issue that bothers me are the wrinkles below the derrière. My sewing instructor says that they need to be there if I actually want to SIT in my pants. Bummer!

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CONSTRUCTION

I’ve made jeans before so there was nothing new for these.  I always have difficulty at the ends of the waistband though where there is a lot of bulk.  Need to work on that. Jeans button and rivets are from Joann’s and were easy to intall.

The topstitching was done with white jeans thread which worked just fine.  I had my serger and two sewing machines running for this one so I didn’t have to keep changing the thread.

LEASONS LEARNED

  • Take fabric stretch into account when drafting the pockets.
  • Attach rear patch pockets AFTER fitting the waist and hip.

Burda 8019, aka The Elmo Coat

This is my first coat, Burda 8019, and also one of my favorites.  Early in my sewing journey I purchased this red wool mohair thinking I would make a suit out of it!  Luckily,  I didn’t get to this fabric for a few years and by then realized that it was way too thick for a suit and that a coat would be more appropriate.

Burda 8019Line Drawing

It has raglan sleeves which I prefer for an overcoat, a simple raised collar, princess seams, a dropped waist with a belt, pockets at the waist, and tabs at the sleeves.

It’s lined with satin, and has silk dupioni facings in a red/yellow cross dye.   This is also my first attempt at piping which I used to highlight the seaming.   It’s done in the same dupioni as the facing.  It’s interlined with cotton flannel for warmth and has covered buttons at the belt and sleeve tabs, two more firsts!

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Lessons learned:

1. Always plan your closures before you start to sew.  If I had, I could have made bound buttonholes.

2. Be consistent with the color of cording used inside the piping.  I ran out of white and switched to something dark, and if you look close you can see the difference.

Wow!  I had no idea this was such an adventurous make! [ I posted this on Pattern Review in 2009 and the coat is now starting to show signs of wear.  The dupioni is starting to get thin in places.]