Tag Archives: boucle

Vogue 7975 – French Jacket

A few years ago I made this boucle jacket following the techniques illustrated In Susan Khalje’s article on Chanel jackets in issue #121 of Threads magazine. I bought the boucle from J&G Fabrics in NYC. The pattern is the popular Vogue 7975 which has both front and back princess seams. I made view C, the short version with three quarter sleeves.

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I wasn’t terribly happy with the original fit, and altered it several times AFTER completing the project. With thicker fabrics I seem to over or under compensate when I move from the muslin to the fashion fabric and this one was too snug everywhere.

Changes: The original has no closures and meets at CF so last year I added vertical strips to the front so it now overlaps. I also added buttons an inseam buttonholes. I have also decided that jewel necklines are not for me and changed it to a vee neck. I keep thinking that the jacket makes me look matronly. One reason is that the length of the sleeves aligns with the length of the jacket creating a wide horizontal line. I omitted the pockets as they were adding too much bulk.

Construction: I love the channel quilting technique and will most definitely try this again. There is a certain zen nature to the hand stitching that is very satisfying. The hand stitching also makes this project portable so I was able to do much of it on my daily train commute. After reading A Challenging Sew ‘s blog about the making of her French style jacket, I think that my make could have benefited from batiste or organza interlining.  Although it’s super soft and sweater-like it seems to sag and droop a bit at the neck. I’ll have to experiment with the configuration next time.

I did experiment with all kinds of trim and never found anything I liked. I like the trims I see on other similar jackets but when I see it on myself I think it’s too much.

Next time: Lucky me, I just happen to have several pieces of Linton tweed in my stash that will be perfect. Jealous? Thanks Mom!

 I’ll be using Marfy 3182. I find Marfy patterns easier to fit than the big four and they have a closer fit. It’s got a nice sleeve/armhole detail and I’m also digging the collar.

Marfy 3182

Lessons learned:
1. Look at interlining the jacket next time.

2. Take into account fabric thickness when fitting.

3. Sleeves should not be the same length as the jacket.

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