A “suede” jacket was on my bucket list so I tackled this last fall. In typical Suits Me fashion I only got to wear it a few times before it was too cold. It’s intended to wear casually over a tee or sweater and has a close fit.
Luscious Ultrasuede from B&J Fabrics in NYC. Love, love, love that place! It’s lined with a flannel-backed Kasha lining. Pockets are faced with cotton shirting.
I started with Marfy F1447 (OOP I think) which is designed for leather or vinyl but the muslin got a thumbs down by my ASG buddies. (How could Marfy strike out?) The Safari jacket in Burda Style 02/2011 fit the bill for casual styling with two piece sleeves, two-piece collar, giant bag pockets, snaps, and cuffs. The upper pockets are made in two pieces so they map to the dart shape underneath. The pattern has two back vents which I omitted.
I took a pattern designed for gaberdine, and made it in Ultrasuede with flannel backed lining intended to wear over a sweater. Well, it’s a little snug at the upper arm and chest with a sweater underneath but fine with just a tee. I did compensate for the extra fabric but not enough.
The pattern is designed for petites. I thought the length was fine but when I look at the photos I see I really could use another 2″ in length. At 5′-5″ I’m not a petite.
I also need to work harder on the shoulder slope issue.
Working with Ultrasuede is easy! I followed the construction techniques in Sewing with Ultrasuede by Palmer-Pletsch which worked out fine. I even used a bit of linen for the sleeve head which eased the cap perfectly when installed. There is even some glue stick involved which was fun in a kindergarten kind of way. For the topstitching I used rayon embroidery thread in a similar color and gives it a subtle sheen.
Don’t underestimate the thickness of the final fashion fabric and lining when fitting.