Tag Archives: burda style

Burda Style 02/2011 #127 – Ultrasuede Jacket

A “suede” jacket was on my bucket list so I tackled this last fall. In typical Suits Me fashion I only got to wear it a few times before it was too cold. It’s intended to wear casually over a tee or sweater and has a close fit.

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Fabric
Luscious Ultrasuede from B&J Fabrics in NYC. Love, love, love that place! It’s lined with a flannel-backed Kasha lining. Pockets are faced with cotton shirting.

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Pattern
I started with Marfy F1447 (OOP I think) which is designed for leather or vinyl but the muslin got a thumbs down by my ASG buddies. (How could Marfy strike out?) The Safari jacket in Burda Style 02/2011 fit the bill for casual styling with two piece sleeves, two-piece collar, giant bag pockets, snaps, and cuffs. The upper pockets are made in two pieces so they map to the dart shape underneath. The pattern has two back vents which I omitted.

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Fit
I took a pattern designed for gaberdine, and made it in Ultrasuede with flannel backed lining intended to wear over a sweater. Well, it’s a little snug at the upper arm and chest with a sweater underneath but fine with just a tee. I did compensate for the extra fabric but not enough.
The pattern is designed for petites. I thought the length was fine but when I look at the photos I see I really could use another 2″ in length. At 5′-5″ I’m not a petite.
I also need to work harder on the shoulder slope issue.

Construction
Working with Ultrasuede is easy! I followed the construction techniques in Sewing with Ultrasuede by Palmer-Pletsch which worked out fine. I even used a bit of linen for the sleeve head which eased the cap perfectly when installed. There is even some glue stick involved which was fun in a kindergarten kind of way. For the topstitching I used rayon embroidery thread in a similar color and gives it a subtle sheen.

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Lessons Learned
Don’t underestimate the thickness of the final fashion fabric and lining when fitting.

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Burda Style 11/2011 #107B – Flannel Dress

I just love the idea of this tunic/dress from Burda Style. It has oversized shirt styling plus has side flaps on the back that wrap around and tie in front. Here I am clenching my fists in the balmy 17 degree weather. I had the idea that this would be a cozy hang around the house or go out on the weekends kind of dress but reality has set in. In winter I’m relegated to tights/leggings with dresses which just aren’t that relaxing. And the flannel isn’t that warm so it doesn’t come out to play as often as I would like. However I’m definitely up for another in a summer fabric. Perhaps a beach coverup?
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Fabric: Cheap Cotton flannel from Joann’s. It’s a bit spongy and a bit wobbly. It took some wrestling to get it squared up for cutting.

Pattern: Burda Style 11/2011 #107B. (By the way, I think this was the best issue ever! You know, the one with the red riding hood cape?) The magazine showed this in several lengths styled different ways so it’s a keeper if I can find a way to wear it. It has a funky relaxed vibe to it.
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Changes: I added darts in the lower back to give it some shape.

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Construction techniques: Nothing special. I serged the seams and did a double folded hem.

Lessons learned: When sewing with fabric that has two identical sides, you STILL need to mark the right side or else you could end up with two left sleeves complete with cuffs and no extra fabric. As me how I know!