Tag Archives: coat

Marfy F1973 – Winter Coat

Last Fall I was experimenting with with different winter coat patterns and finally settled on Marfy F1973.  The most important feature for me was the raglan sleeve.  For a winter coat that I will be wearing over jackets and sweaters it’s easier to get on and off and doesn’t seem to bind at the armhole with a raglan cut.  It has generous sleeves and I liked the look of the swirly skirt and wide collar that I could use to showcase some faux fur.  The belt is plus to keep out drafts and the length works for most of my skirts.

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Marfy F1973

This was meant to be a ‘super coat’ that would withstand the Boston weather on my daily commute and it did not disappoint!  I finished in December so I was able to put it to the test during our winter from Hell.  It’s definitely not very svelte but I’d rather be warm than chic.

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Faux Fur Collar

FABRIC

The fashion fabric is a very soft tweedy wool twill that I purchased from Sawyer Brook several years ago.  Amazingly it’s not itchy at all!  On my screen it looked like a very warm brown, sort of a camel color so I pounced without ordering a swatch.  I should know better when spending the big bucks.  It’s actually a very cool brown and drab tan and not something I would have selected if I had seen it in person but heh, I’m already over it.

A Live Model!
A Live Model!

I got the faux fur from Kashi at Metro Textiles the last time I was in NYC.  Buttons are from Joann’s I think.

Lining.  Support buttons on inside.
Lining. Support buttons on inside. Photobomber: Waffles

CONSTRUCTION

Marfy patterns have no instructions so I used my trusty ‘Jackets for Real People’ by Palmer Pletsch.  I also drafted the lining.  Big picture:

  • Construct the outer shell complete with the undercollar
  • Assemble the facing, lining, and overcollar.  The lambswool was basted to the individual lining and facing pieces before being stitched together.
  • The windproofing is a seperate interling extending from the neckline down to the waist.  The sleeves of the windproofing are only connected only along the top half of the armhole and are cut back a bit at the underarm to reduce bulk.
  • Attach the entire outer shell to the inner shell along the front and collar edge.
  • Buttonholes at the front are bound.  I made standard buttonholes on the sleeve tabs.
  • Oh the collar – it’s actually a double collar.  The faux fur is a separate piece that is tacked on for the season so I can send the rest of the coat to the dry cleaners.
Marfy F1973
Marfy F1973

PATTERN/FIT

Since it’s not very close fitting I only made a couple of changes:

  • Lowered the beltline by an inch
  • Lengthened the sleeves by an inch -something I should be doing on all my Marfy coats/jackets.
  • Flared the side seams out starting at the waist so that the circumference at the hem is 4″ larger.  It just didn’t have that twirly Mary Tyler Moore thing going on that the pattern image shows.  Not sure it was necessary.
  • Added 20″ to the length of the belt!
  • What I didn’t notice on the muslin is that the back neckline is a bit low. It’s drafty at the back neck unless my scarf is positioned just so.  Not sure if I needed to just raise the back neckline or make a rounded back adjustment.

LESSONS LEARNED

  • Order a swatch!  Don’t be so impulsive when ordering fabric except at Emma One Sock.
  • Check neckline when reviewing fit.
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Burda 8019, aka The Elmo Coat

This is my first coat, Burda 8019, and also one of my favorites.  Early in my sewing journey I purchased this red wool mohair thinking I would make a suit out of it!  Luckily,  I didn’t get to this fabric for a few years and by then realized that it was way too thick for a suit and that a coat would be more appropriate.

Burda 8019Line Drawing

It has raglan sleeves which I prefer for an overcoat, a simple raised collar, princess seams, a dropped waist with a belt, pockets at the waist, and tabs at the sleeves.

It’s lined with satin, and has silk dupioni facings in a red/yellow cross dye.   This is also my first attempt at piping which I used to highlight the seaming.   It’s done in the same dupioni as the facing.  It’s interlined with cotton flannel for warmth and has covered buttons at the belt and sleeve tabs, two more firsts!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Lessons learned:

1. Always plan your closures before you start to sew.  If I had, I could have made bound buttonholes.

2. Be consistent with the color of cording used inside the piping.  I ran out of white and switched to something dark, and if you look close you can see the difference.

Wow!  I had no idea this was such an adventurous make! [ I posted this on Pattern Review in 2009 and the coat is now starting to show signs of wear.  The dupioni is starting to get thin in places.]