Tag Archives: jacket

Tracy Reese Vogue V1092 – Puffy-sleeved Jacket

I’ve had this suit made for a while now but wanted to work over the skirt first before photographing it. I plan on wearing it to a big presentation on Monday. I think it says “creative professional”.

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I know, you may need some sunglasses for my blindingly white legs! It’s their first day out.

Fabric
This is a wool/cotton blend that I got from Sawyer Brook fabrics. I’m lucky enough to live nearby so I got to pick this out in person. By the way, they have a swatch subscription service where they send you a sample of all of the goods they get in seasonally. That way you get to touch and feel the real thing before you buy.
The fabric is a cross-weave of black and off-white in wool, with a pinstriped pattern in peach and pale blue cotton.
It’s lined with Ambiance.

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Belt Detail with D-Ring

Pattern
I was drawn to the jacket, Vogue V1092, because of the puffy sleeves which are actually pleated. It’s collarless, fully lined, and has a partial belt and four pockets. I think that the pockets have an awkward horizontal proportion and ditched them as they just seemed too busy.

The pattern also includes an unusual skirt with diagonal seaming but I made a different one which I’ll post soon. I don’t think the diagonal seaming works well with the lines of this jacket, but I may make it someday.

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Construction
The pattern includes pieces for the lining and a full facing that extends under the armholes. The only issue I had with the directions is that they leave you with with a nasty raw edge at the armhole. I made a bias binding from the lining fabric and added that. The construction, including the sleeves, is not difficult since there is no collar.

I think my sleeves have the right balance of puffy vs. droopy, but different types of fabric might require experimentation with a sleeve head or organza underlining.

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Detail of Sleeve Lining and Binding

Lessons Learned
1. Be more thoughtful of button size. I followed the pattern recommendation but I think there is a faint reference to Pierrot here, not a good association.

2. Be more careful of button placement. I shouldn’t have followed the pattern. There is no button at the waist and so it gaped when I sat down. I added a hook and eye to fix it.

3. I feel uncomfortable in collarless jackets. I know this and should have listened to myself and added a collar.

Conclusion
Well it’s very distinctive so I I don’t think I’ll be making more but I do like the unusual sleeves. Other than the necklace I’m wearing in the photos I can’t figure out how to style it. All I can think of is a sleeveless collared blouse in a coordinating blue.
Wouldn’t this be cool in a khaki colorway for a funky safari style?

Burda Style 02/2011 #127 – Ultrasuede Jacket

A “suede” jacket was on my bucket list so I tackled this last fall. In typical Suits Me fashion I only got to wear it a few times before it was too cold. It’s intended to wear casually over a tee or sweater and has a close fit.

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Fabric
Luscious Ultrasuede from B&J Fabrics in NYC. Love, love, love that place! It’s lined with a flannel-backed Kasha lining. Pockets are faced with cotton shirting.

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Pattern
I started with Marfy F1447 (OOP I think) which is designed for leather or vinyl but the muslin got a thumbs down by my ASG buddies. (How could Marfy strike out?) The Safari jacket in Burda Style 02/2011 fit the bill for casual styling with two piece sleeves, two-piece collar, giant bag pockets, snaps, and cuffs. The upper pockets are made in two pieces so they map to the dart shape underneath. The pattern has two back vents which I omitted.

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Fit
I took a pattern designed for gaberdine, and made it in Ultrasuede with flannel backed lining intended to wear over a sweater. Well, it’s a little snug at the upper arm and chest with a sweater underneath but fine with just a tee. I did compensate for the extra fabric but not enough.
The pattern is designed for petites. I thought the length was fine but when I look at the photos I see I really could use another 2″ in length. At 5′-5″ I’m not a petite.
I also need to work harder on the shoulder slope issue.

Construction
Working with Ultrasuede is easy! I followed the construction techniques in Sewing with Ultrasuede by Palmer-Pletsch which worked out fine. I even used a bit of linen for the sleeve head which eased the cap perfectly when installed. There is even some glue stick involved which was fun in a kindergarten kind of way. For the topstitching I used rayon embroidery thread in a similar color and gives it a subtle sheen.

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Lessons Learned
Don’t underestimate the thickness of the final fashion fabric and lining when fitting.