Tag Archives: jersey

Shawl Collar Bubble Tee – Frankenpattern

Excitement abounds! I get to check off item #3 on my SWAP list and, based on the changes I made to the shoulders, I now have a TNT Tee!
This type of shawl-scarf-draped neckline is one of my favorites because it’s soft and works well with a typical jacket neckline. ┬áThe top is intended for work, but here I am modelling sans makeup on a Saturday morning sorely needing a cut and color!

IMG_8893Fit: I made some changes based on what I saw on the Caramel Vee-neck Tee. This meant lowering the right shoulder and making adjustments for forward shoulders. I also adjusted the sleeve accordingly. l am pretty happy with the fit so far.

IMG_8902Pattern: The body originally started by tracing a RTW tee to make my Caramel Vee neck Tee. I then superimposed the neckline from #250 Pam’s Blouse by Silhouette Patterns. I made this blouse once before and had raised the neckline a few inches. (I promise I’ll post it.) In converting this from a blouse to a tee, I introduced a horizontal seam at the bottom of the collar just under the bust to collect the overlapping collar. Brilliant if I do say so myself!

IMG_8914Fabric: Another tasty treat from Emma One Sock. It’s a jersey called “Bubble Tea”. I picked it because I was looking for a print with teal/tan/brown. I have hard time fining prints I like and therefore don’t have very many, but this one is perfect.

IMG_8912Construction: Serged seams. 1 1/2″ deep hem made with 1/4″ Steam-a-Seam then stitched with double needle.

Lesson learned: Don’t just use the dress form (aka Helena) to fit. Helena is a few inches bigger than me so I really need to try it on myself before I get too far. The drape on the collar is a bit too loose so need to shorten it next time.

Caramel Vee-neck Tee

Item #2 of my SWAP (Check!) is a caramel colored tee to wear under jackets to work. I know, not very exciting, but if I hadn’t put it in the SWAP it would never have been made. This type of make is super quick and I’m starting to feel more comfortable sewing with knits.
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I have a favorite RTW jersey vee neck top that I love so I laid it down and traced it. The fit is great but what I really like about the RTW top is that the entire front is a double layer of fabric so there is no binding or seam finish at the front neckline. The back of the neck is bound.
Techniques: I’ve used the double layer front technique before but I didn’t have enough fabric to do it this time. Instead I created a facing that extends all the way into the shoulder seam. On the outside face I then stitched the edge of the facing down with a small zigzag stitch. In hindsight it would have looked better with a twin needle topstitch. I was trying to avoid ribbing or binding because I wanted a dressy clean finish.

Construction: In the past I have serged the seams of similar jersey fabric with woolly nylon in the loopers. I tried it with standard serger thread here and I like it better because it’s less bulky than the nylon.
Sleeves and bottom are hemmed first using 1/4″ Steam-a-Seam and then a twin needle topstitch. I haven’t had much luck with a cover stitch on such lightweight fabric.
Fabric: Rayon/Lycra jersey from Emma One Sock, lightweight with a lovely drape. She stocks it in a number of colors.
Pattern: Self-drafted
Fit: Great at bust, waist, and hips. Good length for 3/4 sleeves. Needs work at shoulders.

Lessons learned:
1. Knits aren’t so hard.
2. Zigzag finish is not so nice for a dressy tee. For the next one I want to morph the facing/double front idea into a faced yoke.
3. Always check shoulder slope! I should have lowered the right shoulder and moved it forward as usual. I didn’t notice this problem on the RTW but of course I’m not looking for it.