Tag Archives: kwik sew

Kwik Sew 2905 – Kids’ Pajamas

I saw on PatternReview that Kwik Sew is going out of business. So sad. I have a series of their patterns that I have used again and again so I thought I would post this one in memoriam. By the way, if you’ve never made a Kwik Sew pattern they have excellent instructions and graphics, and best of all the patterns are printed on bond paper with multi-colored ink for different sizes. What a luxury.

Kwik Sew 2905
Kwik Sew 2905

I don’t sew a lot clothes for my son since he grows out of them so fast, but I have made this pattern three times so far (all in cotton flannel) and he just loves them. What can I say except that they are easy to make and super cute. This pair is his favorite as they are printed with his favorite animal of the moment – sheep.

Sorry I don’t remember where I got the fabric. I do know I did an online search specifically for a sheep print that wasn’t too babyish.

I had fun with the print and put a seam in the back of the collar so I could get a black sheep on each side of the front. I also pattern matched the pocket and front edge. I think it was a good practice exercise for more complicated print matching for my own garments.

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Shirtmaking and Shallow capped Sleeves

My ASG group is learning about shirts and blouses this year so I picked up David Page Coffin’s Shirtmaking originally published in 1993.  Wow!  Now I know why this is a classic.  It’s well explained and illustrated  and, well geeky me, I’m reading it straight through.  I’ve only made two blouses before, but they did not have any traditional details like collars and cuffs so this is all new to me.
His description of how to fit starting with a straight level yoke on a model or mannequin is spot on.  I have uneven sloping and slightly forward shoulders that are notoriously difficult for me to fit and Bam! The shoulders on my first blouse mockup fit well the first time.  Yeah!
There is also a wonderful explanation of the relationship between the angle of the sleeve and how this relates to both the height of the sleeve cap, and comfort and reach range.  Conceptually a sleeve with a shallow cap projects out fairly horizontal and will therefore need to be fairly wide to connect to the bottom of the armhole.  A  sleeve with deeper cap will project down at an angle and will therefore be narrower.  This means that there is also more fabric under the armpit in a shallow capped sleeve which allows for a greater reach range.
Aha!

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Most shallow capped sleeves drive me wild because of the excess fabric below the armpit and the drag lines from the shoulder.
Check out this fleece which has fairly shallow caps.  See the diagonal wrinkles coming down from my shoulder point when my arm is down?  I admit that this is super thick and therefore quite bulky under the arm, but you get the same drag lines with lighter fabrics.
(The fabric pooling on the bodice under the arm is because I didn’t slope the shoulder down enough, but I know how to fix that now, and yes the sleeves are too tight for the Fleece.)
I don’t need extra reach range in my daily commute and office life thank you, and I wear sweaters and jackets over my tops 90% of the time so I don’t want the extra bulk.
No wonder I keep finding these shallow caps in patterns for casual garments.  They are “easier to fit” and more comfortable, but sometime they just don’t look that great.
Do you prefer shallow capped sleeves or those with a deep cap?  Do you consider this when selecting a pattern?