Tag Archives: sawyer brook

Vogue V7937 – Pin-striped Kick-pleat Skirt

This is the skirt I made to coordinate with the Puffy-sleeved Tracy Reese jacket. I’ve had it made for a while now but wanted to work it over first before photographing it.

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I know, you may need some sunglasses for my blindingly white legs!

Fabric
This is a wool/cotton blend that I got from Sawyer Brook fabrics.
It’s a cross-weave of black and off-white in wool, with a pinstriped pattern in peach and pale blue cotton.
I lined it with with Ambiance, and I’ll share this secret; the front and back are lined with two different colors, grey and black! You won’t tell will you?

Pattern
I picked Vogue V7937 because of the princess seaming, and the pleat detail in the back which I thought would work with the sleeves of the coordinating jacket. I’ve made this pattern once before with success. It’s a great little pattern with several options at the back and waist and I think it’s been around for a while.

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Construction
I omitted the facing at the waist since it usually adds bulk. Instead I fashioned a tiny 1/2″ binding from the fashion fabric.

I also thought I’d get all fancy and underline the skirt with silk organza but it’s not holding up very well. It’s starting to shred at the stress points! I had a terrible time keeping the seams from rippling. I didn’t have this problem with the jacket so I don’t know why it happened on the skirt. I’ve pressed and pressed. I just can’t believe it’s the organza. It shows up in the photo above but not the photo below. Hmmm…

It was also looking quite frumpy which is why I finally brought it back to the sewing room. I pegged it by 2″ and shortened it by an inch. These two changes took it from frumpy to downright sassy! Yeah me!

I also tweaked the invisible zipper AGAIN as the stitching wasn’t close enough to the teeth. I usually don’t have any trouble with this type of zipper but I ended up working this one over four times!

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Detail of Skirt Pleats

Lessons Learned
Careful of my skirt lengths and widths.

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Tracy Reese Vogue V1092 – Puffy-sleeved Jacket

I’ve had this suit made for a while now but wanted to work over the skirt first before photographing it. I plan on wearing it to a big presentation on Monday. I think it says “creative professional”.

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I know, you may need some sunglasses for my blindingly white legs! It’s their first day out.

Fabric
This is a wool/cotton blend that I got from Sawyer Brook fabrics. I’m lucky enough to live nearby so I got to pick this out in person. By the way, they have a swatch subscription service where they send you a sample of all of the goods they get in seasonally. That way you get to touch and feel the real thing before you buy.
The fabric is a cross-weave of black and off-white in wool, with a pinstriped pattern in peach and pale blue cotton.
It’s lined with Ambiance.

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Belt Detail with D-Ring

Pattern
I was drawn to the jacket, Vogue V1092, because of the puffy sleeves which are actually pleated. It’s collarless, fully lined, and has a partial belt and four pockets. I think that the pockets have an awkward horizontal proportion and ditched them as they just seemed too busy.

The pattern also includes an unusual skirt with diagonal seaming but I made a different one which I’ll post soon. I don’t think the diagonal seaming works well with the lines of this jacket, but I may make it someday.

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Construction
The pattern includes pieces for the lining and a full facing that extends under the armholes. The only issue I had with the directions is that they leave you with with a nasty raw edge at the armhole. I made a bias binding from the lining fabric and added that. The construction, including the sleeves, is not difficult since there is no collar.

I think my sleeves have the right balance of puffy vs. droopy, but different types of fabric might require experimentation with a sleeve head or organza underlining.

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Detail of Sleeve Lining and Binding

Lessons Learned
1. Be more thoughtful of button size. I followed the pattern recommendation but I think there is a faint reference to Pierrot here, not a good association.

2. Be more careful of button placement. I shouldn’t have followed the pattern. There is no button at the waist and so it gaped when I sat down. I added a hook and eye to fix it.

3. I feel uncomfortable in collarless jackets. I know this and should have listened to myself and added a collar.

Conclusion
Well it’s very distinctive so I I don’t think I’ll be making more but I do like the unusual sleeves. Other than the necklace I’m wearing in the photos I can’t figure out how to style it. All I can think of is a sleeveless collared blouse in a coordinating blue.
Wouldn’t this be cool in a khaki colorway for a funky safari style?