Tag Archives: vogue

Tracy Reese Vogue V1092 – Puffy-sleeved Jacket

I’ve had this suit made for a while now but wanted to work over the skirt first before photographing it. I plan on wearing it to a big presentation on Monday. I think it says “creative professional”.

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I know, you may need some sunglasses for my blindingly white legs! It’s their first day out.

Fabric
This is a wool/cotton blend that I got from Sawyer Brook fabrics. I’m lucky enough to live nearby so I got to pick this out in person. By the way, they have a swatch subscription service where they send you a sample of all of the goods they get in seasonally. That way you get to touch and feel the real thing before you buy.
The fabric is a cross-weave of black and off-white in wool, with a pinstriped pattern in peach and pale blue cotton.
It’s lined with Ambiance.

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Belt Detail with D-Ring

Pattern
I was drawn to the jacket, Vogue V1092, because of the puffy sleeves which are actually pleated. It’s collarless, fully lined, and has a partial belt and four pockets. I think that the pockets have an awkward horizontal proportion and ditched them as they just seemed too busy.

The pattern also includes an unusual skirt with diagonal seaming but I made a different one which I’ll post soon. I don’t think the diagonal seaming works well with the lines of this jacket, but I may make it someday.

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Construction
The pattern includes pieces for the lining and a full facing that extends under the armholes. The only issue I had with the directions is that they leave you with with a nasty raw edge at the armhole. I made a bias binding from the lining fabric and added that. The construction, including the sleeves, is not difficult since there is no collar.

I think my sleeves have the right balance of puffy vs. droopy, but different types of fabric might require experimentation with a sleeve head or organza underlining.

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Detail of Sleeve Lining and Binding

Lessons Learned
1. Be more thoughtful of button size. I followed the pattern recommendation but I think there is a faint reference to Pierrot here, not a good association.

2. Be more careful of button placement. I shouldn’t have followed the pattern. There is no button at the waist and so it gaped when I sat down. I added a hook and eye to fix it.

3. I feel uncomfortable in collarless jackets. I know this and should have listened to myself and added a collar.

Conclusion
Well it’s very distinctive so I I don’t think I’ll be making more but I do like the unusual sleeves. Other than the necklace I’m wearing in the photos I can’t figure out how to style it. All I can think of is a sleeveless collared blouse in a coordinating blue.
Wouldn’t this be cool in a khaki colorway for a funky safari style?

Vogue 8301 – Military Style Jacket

This is another early make, published on PR in 2009.

I selected this pattern because I was looking for a summer jacket with princess seams and a peplum. I was initially interested in the shield, but later decided that I just needed a ‘basic black’ jacket.  It’s made up in black linen.

Vogue Patterns 8301

I made the view on the right, but eliminated the ‘shield’ on the front. The shield is actually a separate panel of fabric stitched to the jacket along the center front seam and attached at the sides and top with buttons.  The two sides are designed to be fastened at the CF with hooks & eyes.  It’s not a bad feature, but I just wasn’t in the mood.  I also added an Ambience lining from the waist seam up. The peplum is lined in the fashion fabric as are the cuffs and collar.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis is the first jacket where I tried to insert a sleeve header, but I used the wrong fabric and it failed. I also inserted one of the sleeves three times and still couldn’t get the puckers out.    Grrr…

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I used bound buttonholes and I am starting to like them a lot. They look so much better than my machine holes.

Yes, there are two types of buttons. Between the time I started the jacket in the summer, and when I finished it six months later I lost a button, so I found a cool one in my stash for the top.  This is what we call a “design opportunity” in the office.

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Lessons learned:

A) Don’t keep making big four patterns unless I am prepared to spend serious time on the fit.  In general, this pattern had too much ease at the shoulder, arms, and upper bust.  Study the mockup closely Margaret and remove excess ease in sleeve cap and sleeve width.  Also probably should have raised the underarm seams.

B) Study the mockup closely and don’t over fit the bust.  Don’t think I needed that SBA.

C) For cryin’ out loud, don’t make any more black garments.  It’s not my color.