A few years ago I made this boucle jacket following the techniques illustrated In Susan Khalje’s article on Chanel jackets in issue #121 of Threads magazine. I bought the boucle from J&G Fabrics in NYC. The pattern is the popular Vogue 7975 which has both front and back princess seams. I made view C, the short version with three quarter sleeves.
I wasn’t terribly happy with the original fit, and altered it several times AFTER completing the project. With thicker fabrics I seem to over or under compensate when I move from the muslin to the fashion fabric and this one was too snug everywhere.
Changes: The original has no closures and meets at CF so last year I added vertical strips to the front so it now overlaps. I also added buttons an inseam buttonholes. I have also decided that jewel necklines are not for me and changed it to a vee neck. I keep thinking that the jacket makes me look matronly. One reason is that the length of the sleeves aligns with the length of the jacket creating a wide horizontal line. I omitted the pockets as they were adding too much bulk.
Construction: I love the channel quilting technique and will most definitely try this again. There is a certain zen nature to the hand stitching that is very satisfying. The hand stitching also makes this project portable so I was able to do much of it on my daily train commute. After reading A Challenging Sew ‘s blog about the making of her French style jacket, I think that my make could have benefited from batiste or organza interlining. Although it’s super soft and sweater-like it seems to sag and droop a bit at the neck. I’ll have to experiment with the configuration next time.
I did experiment with all kinds of trim and never found anything I liked. I like the trims I see on other similar jackets but when I see it on myself I think it’s too much.
Next time: Lucky me, I just happen to have several pieces of Linton tweed in my stash that will be perfect. Jealous? Thanks Mom!
I’ll be using Marfy 3182. I find Marfy patterns easier to fit than the big four and they have a closer fit. It’s got a nice sleeve/armhole detail and I’m also digging the collar.
1. Look at interlining the jacket next time.
2. Take into account fabric thickness when fitting.
3. Sleeves should not be the same length as the jacket.