Tag Archives: linen

Vogue 8301 – Military Style Jacket

This is another early make, published on PR in 2009.

I selected this pattern because I was looking for a summer jacket with princess seams and a peplum. I was initially interested in the shield, but later decided that I just needed a ‘basic black’ jacket.  It’s made up in black linen.

Vogue Patterns 8301

I made the view on the right, but eliminated the ‘shield’ on the front. The shield is actually a separate panel of fabric stitched to the jacket along the center front seam and attached at the sides and top with buttons.  The two sides are designed to be fastened at the CF with hooks & eyes.  It’s not a bad feature, but I just wasn’t in the mood.  I also added an Ambience lining from the waist seam up. The peplum is lined in the fashion fabric as are the cuffs and collar.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis is the first jacket where I tried to insert a sleeve header, but I used the wrong fabric and it failed. I also inserted one of the sleeves three times and still couldn’t get the puckers out.    Grrr…

I used bound buttonholes and I am starting to like them a lot. They look so much better than my machine holes.

Yes, there are two types of buttons. Between the time I started the jacket in the summer, and when I finished it six months later I lost a button, so I found a cool one in my stash for the top.  This is what we call a “design opportunity” in the office.



Lessons learned:

A) Don’t keep making big four patterns unless I am prepared to spend serious time on the fit.  In general, this pattern had too much ease at the shoulder, arms, and upper bust.  Study the mockup closely Margaret and remove excess ease in sleeve cap and sleeve width.  Also probably should have raised the underarm seams.

B) Study the mockup closely and don’t over fit the bust.  Don’t think I needed that SBA.

C) For cryin’ out loud, don’t make any more black garments.  It’s not my color.